Every irrigation season starts with a proper startup. Skipping this step risks leaks, broken pipes, and uneven watering. Here is a detailed checklist with expert tips.

When to start?

When soil has thawed to 25–30 cm and overnight freezes are no longer expected — mid-March through April. Nighttime temperatures consistently above 3 °C (37 °F)? You are safe to begin. Check the 10-day forecast — one unexpected frost can destroy a freshly filled system.

1. Pre-startup site inspection

Walk the entire property carefully: look for heaved sprinkler heads (sign of frost heave), cracked valve box lids, exposed pipe from soil erosion. Check controller display and battery backup. Open your project in SmartPluvia — compare current conditions with last season's plan.

2. Clean the filters

Flush the screen or disc filter under pressure. A clogged filter drops pressure by 0.3–0.5 bar (4–7 PSI) and reduces throw radius by 15–20%. For drip lines this is critical — every other emitter gets blocked.

3. Check the backflow preventer

Membranes intact, test ports sealed. In many jurisdictions annual testing is required by law. The backflow preventer protects drinking water from fertilizers and soil contaminants that could siphon back from the irrigation system.

4. Slow pressurization

Open the main valve SLOWLY — quarter turn per minute. Abrupt opening causes water hammer that can split fittings and damage valves. Wait for full pressure, then listen — hissing indicates a leak. Leave the system pressurized for 10 minutes and check the pressure gauge: if it drops, you have a leak somewhere.

5. Zone-by-zone testing

Run each zone for 3–5 minutes. For each zone check: all heads pop up fully, spray pattern shows correct arc and radius, no geysers (broken head), no sunken heads (dirt intrusion). Mark problems on your zone map.

6. Check for leaks

Wet spots = underground leak. Geyser = broken head. 1 L/min leak = 1,440 L/day = $200+ per season wasted. Check pipe connections, elbows, and tees — these are the most common leak points after winter.

7. Head cleaning and adjustment

Pull up each head, unscrew the nozzle, rinse the filter screen under water. Dirt and sand from winter precipitation clog the orifices. Adjust arc and radius as needed — after winter they often shift. Keep spare Hunter PGP or Rain Bird 5004 heads on hand for quick replacement of broken ones.

8. Catch cup test

6–8 identical containers across the zone, run 15 minutes. Difference max 30% (DU > 0.70). Worse result means nozzle adjustment or replacement is needed.

9. Controller programming

Set seasonal adjust to 70–80% for spring (increase to 100% in summer). Program start times — early morning 4:00–6:00 AM is best: less wind, less evaporation, grass dries before nightfall (fungus prevention). Spring schedule: 2–3 times/week, 15–20 min/zone. Enable rain sensor.

10. Set up the rain sensor

Battery, clean discs, threshold 6–12 mm. Saves up to 35% of water per season. Check the connection to the controller — many wired sensors get damaged by rodents over winter.

Review your design in the SmartPluvia planner before heading to the field. Export a PDF zone checklist to take with you during inspection. For drip irrigation, consider Netafim — the world leader from Israel (since 1965). Standard Generic PE/PVC pipes and fittings are a budget-friendly option for most systems.